![]() Try to rule out all the simple stuff first, so you don’t replace your salt cell needlessly. Phosphate levels that exceed 100 parts per million.Harsh sunlight combined with low levels of pool stabilizer ( cyanuric acid).Potential Problems Unrelated to Salt Cellsīefore replacing your salt cell, consider these other common issues that cause chlorine levels to drop: What’s the temperature? If the pool water is below 50 degrees, less chlorine is required, and some systems will shut off automatically. If you don’t know how to check for high or low salt levels, read my guide on how to test the salt level in your pool. The recommended range is between 2,500 and 3,500, although auto-shutoff levels can vary. What’s the salt level? Many SCGs will shut off automatically if the salt level becomes excessively high or low. Some cells have internal connections you’ll need to check, too. Make sure it’s set to Auto or whatever is specific to your brand.Īre all the connections tight? Double-check the connections at the cell and the control box. Is the salt cell system turned on? You can have the unit powered up but not generating chlorine. Is it time to clean the cell? Many systems send an Inspect Cell alert every 500 hours, which is the recommended cleaning schedule. If you suspect an issue with your salt cell, run through the following checklist: Except if the main issue is a lack of chlorine, which alone isn’t enough to indicate a salt cell problem. If your cell is close to or exceeds the 10,000-hour mark, and you notice any of the above signs, it could very well need replacement. Generally, a salt cell lasts for about 10,000 hours, which is usually around five years for most home pool owners. The SCG isn’t producing chlorine (which could potentially indicate a cell issue). ![]() Amperage is irregular (it should normally be zero or just slightly above).The Cell Warning light displays consistently, shutting off for only a short while after cleaning.However, a water sample shows normal salt levels. The power center displays a Check Salt message.That said, here are solid indications the salt cell likely needs cleaning, repair, or replacement: New saltwater pool owners often mistakenly blame a faulty cell when the real issue lies elsewhere. Many problems that can occur within the system produce similar symptoms to one another. Understanding when a salt cell might need replacement isn’t always easy. It’s typically located a few feet from the control box, which it’s connected to with a cord. It’s a cylinder, usually around a foot-and-a-half long, placed into the water line. The chlorinated water returns to the pool, killing bacteria and preventing algae growth. When water passes through the cell, a low-level electrical charge converts dissolved salt into chlorine. The salt cell is an electrolytic converter installed on the return line behind the filter, heater, and pump. The control box connects to the home’s electrical system. Additionally, it houses an LCD screen or other system to display alerts and other info. It generates the electricity used by the cell. The control box is the brain of the operation. Chlorine is produced naturally instead of added by the pool owners. It’s a system that turns a small amount of salt into chlorine, which keeps your pool clean. ![]()
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